How to be your own Make-Up artist
Modelmayhem EDU, 2012
First to all Mua's here on MM: Do not get upset about this article or make bad conclusions before even reading. This article is not to get you out of the business. Not at all! I am a MUA myself and model and I know for sure, like almost all models and photographers do: a MUA is very needed in this business to create good make-ups for the model. Sometimes a MUA, like in beauty-pictures, is even the main-key to a good picture!
So, this article is not to underestimate your very important role in a photoshoot, it is just to learn a model to be her own MUA when there is not a MUA booked, for whatever reasons possible.....
“Putting on make-up”, is something a (mostly) women does hundreds times in her life. Like a daily routine or even a-few-hours routine. Like all routines, we get stuck in it. Maybe sometimes, on a certain occasion, like a party or a wedding, we try out something differently, but most of the time, women are wearing their make-ups like forever....
For a good portfolio is a not wise to have the same face/make-up in every picture. So when there is no MUA around, you should leave your own routine make-up at home and not only try something else, but also use rules that are maybe against your own “routine” feelings. Here are some rules.
First of all; buy or use a very good foundation. No shining! A shiny face is okay on a holiday-picture, but not in this world ! Make sure the foundation is covering all redness and uneven skintones. After the foundation, use powder all over (and actually in between shoots as well), have the powderbrush and a good powder close to you as your biggest friend.
Do not forget to use concealer under the eyes, it melts some years away, and don't we all want that! Always make sure the eye-concealer is lighter than the foundation. It needs to cover the darker skin under the eyes. Make yourself look first like a panda-bear and than blend it very well with your pinky-finger....
The eyeshadow is all about using a good technique and good brushes. First pick the colors. A black and white shoot needs good brown and grey tones (not too shiny), after all: color does not make sense. Try to focus on the clothing-style, the setting, your own eye-color and the theme of the shoot. A glamour or fashion-shoot, of course needs a complete different color spectrum compared to a natural or casting-picture shoot. Basically try to pick three colors. One color on the eyeball, the main color here, not too dark (that makes the eyes look smaller). Cover the whole eyeball by using an eye-applicator-brush. After that, use a darker color to make a small line on the arcade-bow of the eyes with a smaller brush. (If you can not find the arcade bow, feel the bone of your bone structure, where it starts, that is your arcade-bow.... Above the arcade-bow, use a very light, mostly shiny color as highlighter under the eye-brow. Blend it all very well! No highways above our eyes!
Use a black eye pencil to make lines above the eye and under the eye (only half, do not “close the eyes” that makes them look smaller...) Use a eyebrow pencil to tone the eyebrows and use mascara to finish the eyes. Try and practice at home using falsh-lashes. They can really make the eyes look glamorous or something special. It is not easy but once you have the skills to do it, it is actually fun! Needless to say: be very careful with the glue..........
If you really want to make the eyes look bigger: use a white pencil in the eyes on the eye-lids.... Make sure it is a soft pencil and don t get yourself wounded.... (red vains aren t very appealing...)
Blush and lip-coloring is not that hard... Just one advise here. When the shoot is black and white; never use red lipstick. It will look like black on the picture. Use light pink or orange. You look like a clown in front of the camera, but on the black and white picture it looks much better ! Use blush to create dimension in your face. (a picture is just two dimensional). Show your cheeks, (accentuate your cheekbones) do not set lines, blend it all very well with a big blush brush.
Be very critical. Ask the photographer to show the first pictures and zoom in on the details.... Try to look as MUAś eyes to your own face and forget about your daily-face. Does the make-up suits you? The clothes? The setting? The colors? The theme?
Are we talking about pictures in a certain (in or outdoor) setting? Think about actors in a musical. Their make-up is always overdone. People on the last rows also want to see these people having faces.... If you almost disappear from the picture, than go on and make your eyebrows more alive, set the arcade-bow more in the picture, use flash lashes.... Pump up the lips by using lip-pencils secretly outside the liplines...
If we are talking about head-portraits or casting/lifestyle-pictures, than do not over-exaggerate.
It is all not so difficult if your stick to these rules..... I am very sure there are a lot more rules and different techniques/meanings when it comes to make-up. Every MUA has her of his own ideas/visions and skills. Like every model is used to their own daily routine-make-up.
Maybe one advise it best: learn from the professional make-up artists every time when they do your face for a photo-shoot or video. The good make-ups, the outstanding good make-ups and even the bad experiences..... And when there is no MUA around, do not panic, communicate with the photographer first and than go for it !